a little of each

Ingredients (8-10 appetizer servings)

• 3/4 pound (16 to 20 per lb.) raw shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon pepper
• 1 package (3 3/4 oz.) cellophane noodles
• 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
• 1/2 to 1 teaspoon hot chile flakes
• 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice (about 3 small limes)
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 4 tablespoons Asian fish sauce (nuoc mam or nam pla)
• 2 heads Boston or butter lettuce, cores trimmed and leaves separated, rinsed, and drained
• 1 large carrot, peeled, ends trimmed, and grated lengthwise into ribbons
• 1/4 cup basil leaves
• 1/4 cup cilantro leaves
• 1/4 cup mint leaves
• 1/4 cup peanuts, finely chopped

Instructions

Put shrimp, salt, and pepper in a pot and add cold water to just cover shrimp. Bring water to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cook until shrimp are bright pink and tails are curled, about 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, transfer shrimp to a colander and let cool.

Put cellophane noodles in a medium pot and cover with hot water. Cover pot and set aside until noodles are softened, at least 15 minutes. Drain noodles and (using kitchen scissors) cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces. Return noodles to pot, drizzle with rice vinegar, and toss. Cover and set aside.

In a small bowl, mix chile flakes and lime juice and let sit several minutes. Add garlic, sugar, and fish sauce; whisk until sugar is dissolved. Transfer sauce to a serving dish.

To assemble wraps, arrange some noodles in the middle of each lettuce leaf and top with 1 shrimp. Garnish with carrot, basil, cilantro, mint, and peanuts. Tuck up the bottom of each leaf and fold sides inward to eat. Drizzle with or dip into sauce.